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2 Sheet s-Sheet l.

C. 0, APPLEBY. l Hat-Binding Attachment 13o` Sewing-Machines.

Patr'ted Sept. 16, 1879.

Wzesses f2 Sheet s-Sheet 2.

C. O. APPLEBY. Hat-Binding Attachment to Sewing-Machines.

Patented Sept. 16, 1879K.

MFEIERS, PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER, WASHINGTON. 0,0.

UNI-TED STATES PATENT *OEEIoE- CHARLES O. APPLEBY, OF NYAOK, ASSIGNOR TOJOSEPH A. LOGKWOOD,

OF YONKERS, NEW YORK.

IMPROVEMENT IN HAT-BINDING ATTACHMENTS T0 SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 219,669, datedSeptember 16, 1879; application filed December 20, 1878.

tion of an attachment to sewing-machines which shall not only double thebinding-ribbon in direction ot' its length to receive within it theouter marginal portion ofthe hat-brim, and provide, by the action of thesewing-machine, for feeding up and sewing to its place saidbinding-ribbon as the hat is rotated to 're` ceive thesame arounditsbrim, but which shall also automatically cut said ribbon to its requiredlength and turn over or under one end ofthe cut ribbon to give it anoverlapping iinish which is exempt from a ragged exposure or liabilityto'unravel.

To these ends the invention consists in certa-in combinations of deviceswhereby7 the doubled Aribbon is cut to its required length from acontinuous strip or length of ribbon introduced within the attachment,isautomatically turned over or inward at its cut end, and a continuousoperation of the attachment is provided for to bind a series of hats insuccession.

Such attachment may be applied to sewingmachines now in use, and may beremoved from the machine when the latter is required for any otherpurpose than binding hats.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 represents a plan of theattachment with its parts in position before the binding-ribbon is cutand its cut end turned under or inward, and showing the needleandpresser-foot of the machine and brim of the hat in the course of havingthe binding-ribbon applied to it. Fig. 2 is a detail plan view inillustration of the action of certain curved needles which hold onto theribbon while it is being cut, and of a lapper or folding-hook whichturns inward or under the cut end of the binding-ribbon on the hat. Fig.'3 is a plan of the attachment with its parts in position after thebinding-ribbon has been cut and the cut end of the bindingribbon on thehat turned under or inward. Fig. 4 is a section on the line a: a: inFig. 1, looking in direction of the arrow y; and Fig. 5, a section onthe same linea w in Fig. '1, lookf ing in direction of the arrow y1.Fig. 6 is a plan of the attachment with its parts in position after thebinding-ribbon has been cut and the cut end of the latter turned inwardand in the act of being sewed to complete the binding o'f the brim.Figs. 7 and 8 are side elevations, looking in reverse directions to eachother, of the attachment with its parts in the position represented inFig. 6. Figs. 9 and 10 are a detail broken plan and perspective View,respectively, in illustration of the application of a lapper orfolding-hook for turning under or inward the cut end of thebinding-ribbon on the hat. Fig. 11 is a transverse vertical section ofthe attachment on the line m w in Fig. 6, looking in direction of thearrow y2.

A is the bed or base portion of the .attachment, which is a simple platedesigned to be secured tothe sewing-table of an ordinary or othersuitable sewing-machine by means of screws arranged to pass throughslots a a in said plate. The position of this plate on the sewing-tableshould be such that a jaw-shaped guide, B, with which it is provided atits end e nearest to the sewing-needle b, comes imme-V diately in rear,relatively to the feed, of the presser-foot S of the machine, the brim Coi` y the hat, having the'binding-ribbon c applied toit, passing withinand through said guide B as the hat is rotated by the feeding devices ofthe machine on the table, to sew the binding-ribbon around its brim inthe direction of the arrow z in Fig. 1.

Mounted on and attached to said plate A are front and back longitudinalrails, D D, each of which may be formed of upper and lower bars or rods,to provide for the guidance and sliding'movement of certain devices, ashereinafter described, toward and from the fixed guide B. These rails,which are parallel with one another, are here shown straight; but theymight be curved away from the hat.

E is a ribbon-folder, or combined folder and guide, which is constructedto receive within or though it, and to double or fold longitudinally,the binding-ribbon, as in other hat-binding attachments. Thisribbon-folder is fitted to move longitudinally along the rails -D D, andhas its motion in such direction controlled by hand through a knob orhandle, d. Said folder, having the ribbon entered through it and doubledor foldedlongitudinally by its passage therethrough, is first moved uptoward the fixed guide B, as shown by full-lines in Fig. l, and one handof the operator held 011 the knob d, while the other hand holds the freeor loose portion of the ribbon back of said folder to direct the ribbonto the latter. Such is the position of the folder E while the doubledribbon c is being sewed around the brim ofthe hat till a point isreached within a limited distance of that portion of the brim whichy wasfirst entered within the fixed guide B, when the folder E is drawnpartially back to the position shown for it by dotted lines in Fig. l.vAlso, arranged to travel along the rails D D, and interposed between thefolder E and the fixed guide B, is a slide, G, which, when the folder Eoccupies its eXtreme advanced position (represented by full lines inFig. l) is in locked connection by a spring-catch, e, attached to saidslide, with a fixed hook or inclined projection, f, on the rear side ofthe' folder E, whereby said slide is drawn back along with the folder Etill the latter approaehesthe position represented for it by dottedlines in Fig. l, when the spring g of the catch c is lifted by ridingover a stud, h, attached to the back rail, D. This releases 4the slide Gfrom the sliding ribbon-folder E,

and at the same time, or immediately after, as

the operation continuesthe backward movement ,of the folder E, a hook,i, attached to said folder, acts upon a lever-catch, 7c, connected withsaid slide. This lever-catch 7c has attached to its pivot Z duplicatecurved needles m my, which, as thecatch 7c is moved by the hook i, areoscillated, so as to penetrate in two places, one above the other, theribbon c, to hold, as shown in Figs. l and 2, that Yportion of theribbon which has not yet been attached to the hat. The folder E is thenmoved still farther back till a rear projection, n, on it strikes theback end of a notched portion, o, of a lever, H, pivoted to the plate A,and, by the continued farther back movement of the folder, moves saidlever on its fulcrum i", as shown in Figs. 3 and 4, to operate a pair ofscissors or shears, I I', which cut the ribbon to its required length tocomplete the binding of the hat.

The lever H is of a bell-cranked construction, one arm of which has thenotched portion o within, and past which the projection a acts tooperate the shears, the other arm of the lever H being attached to therear end of a transverse slide, J, in the bed-plate Ae. One blade, I, ofthe shea-rs is rigidly attached at its rear end to said slide J,andtheother blade, I', is pivoted at its rear end to a rod or arm, s,which is pivoted at its upper end to aframe or standard, K, erected onthe plate A.

By this construction and connection of the shears the projection u onthe folder E operates, as said folder is moved back to near the positionshown in Figs. 3 and 6, to advance and close said shears to cut the.ribbon to its required length. Shortly, however, before the folder Ereaches its extreme back position (shown in Figs. 3 and 6) a hook-shapedbar or projection, L, attached` to said folder and engaging with anopen-mouthed cam, M, which works by a pivot, a', i the slide G, turns oroperates said cam to cause a lapper or folding hook, N, attached to saidpivot a', to turn under or inward, as illustrated in Figs. 2, 3, 9, andl0, the loose cut end of that portion of the longitudinallydoubledribbon which is stitched on the hat and to hold the same against theslide G. Said slide G, having been previously liberated, as hereinbeforedescribed, from the folder E, and having the turned-in end of thecut-off portion of the ribbon attached to the hat held up against it bythe needles m m and lapper N, is then drawn forward by the action of thefeeding devices of the sewing-machine on the hat until said slide comesup against the stationary jawshaped guide B, as illustrated in Fig. 6,where it remains during the stitching of the turned-under end of thebinding-ribbon over that end of said ribbon which was first secured tothe brim. During this finishing of the stitching of the binding-ribbonon the hat the lapper or folding hook N continues its frictional hold orpressure on the turned-in end of said ribbon against the slide Gr, withp only sufficient force, however, to keep said ribbon-end in placewithout restricting its draft by the action of the feeding devices ofthe machine from between said slide and said hook. It is necessary,however, that the curved needles m m, which penetrate the ribbon, shouldbe free from their positive hold on the latter as the slide Gr is drawnby the action of thefeeding devices up against the fixed guide B. Tothis end the lever-catch kis caused to strike and slide within andagainst a fixed guidebar, O, as shown in Fig. l, and thereby made toturn the curved needles m m back and out of the ribbon, and to placesaid lever-catch in its previous position for operation in due course,as before, to project said needles into the ribbon for the purpose ofhold ing the latter while being cut.

By reference to Fig. 6 it will be seen that when the binding-ribbon c iscut by the shears I I', a portion of the main strip from which thebinding of one hat has been cut is left projecting in front of thefolder E, ready for a succeeding binding operation.

To repeat the operation on another hat, the folder E is moved by handfrom the position shown for it in Figs. 3, 6, 7, and 8 forward againtoward the fixed guide B, as shown by full lines in Fig. 1, and the sameaction proceeded with as before. During this forward movement of thefolder E it is first caused to strike, by its projection n, the forwardend of the notched portion o of the lever H, and to move said lever sothat the shears I l are drawn back to their normal position. (Shown inFig. l.) The next action of said folder dur-` ing its forward movementis to strike and turn, by its hook shaped bar L, the openmouthed cam Mto the position shown for the latter by full lilies in Fig. l, whichcauses the lapper or folding hook Nto be turned back or out of the way,as represented in said figure,

l and rea-dy, when the folder is moved back, for

projection again in due course as before by the engagement of the bar Lwith the cam M and turning of the latter in the proper direction for thepurpose. The nal actions of said folder E during its advance movementtake place as it completes its forward stroke. Theactions are thepassage of the hook t', as shown in Fig. 1, beyond the lever-catch 7c,and adjustment of the latter to insure said hook in due course engagingwith and operating said catch to project the curved needles m m throughthe ribbon as before, and the engagement of the hook or inclinedprojection f on the folder with the spring-catch e, to insure the folderE, when moving back, drawing along with it the slide G until thespring-catch e is liberated by riding over the fixed stud lt as before.

I claiml. The combination, in a hat-binding attachment to sewing-machines, with a sliding folder which serves to longitudinally doubleor fold the ribbon and guide it to the hat, of a pair of scissors orshears actuated by said folder and operating to cut the ribbon to itsrequired length to encircle and bind the brim ot' the hat, substantiallyas specified.

2. The combination, with the sliding ribbonfolder and with the scissorsor shears actuated by said folder, of an independent slide controlled bythe ribbon-folder, two or more curved needles carried by said slide, andengaging and disengaging devices connected with said ,g needles and withsaid folder for operating the needles to enable them to penetrate theribbon and to hold it While being cut, essentially as described.

3. The combination, with the sliding ribbonfolder and with the scissorsor shears actuated by said folder for cutting the binding- V ribbon toits required length, of a lapper or folding hook, an independent slidecontrolled by the sliding ribbon-folder and carrying said lapper, andengaging and disengaging devices connected with the slidingribbon-folder and `with the lapper for'operating the latter to turnunder and inward the cut end of the ribbon attached to the hat,substantially as specitied.`

4i. The combination of the sliding ribbonfolder, the scissors or shearsactuated by said folder for cutting the binding-ribbon to its requiredlength, an independent slide controlled by the sliding ribbon-folder,two or more curved needles, and a lapper or folding hook carried by saidslide, and engaging and disengaging devices connected with the slidingribbonfolder, and with said curved needles and said lapper,respectively, for operating the needles to hold the ribbon while beingcut, and for actuating the lapper to turn under and inward the cut endof the ribbon, essentially as described.

5. The plate A of the attachment provided with a fixed hollow jaw, B,rails D D, and a ribbon-folder, E, titted to slide upon said rails,substantially as specified.

6. The combination, with the sliding ribbonfolder E, provided with af'projection, n, and with the shears I I', of the slide J., carryingsaidshears, the lever H, having a notched portion, 0, with which saidprojection n engages, and the rod s, having a fixed pivot and connectedwith the workin g-blade of the shears, essentially as described.

7. The combination of the slide G, the sliding folder E, thespring-catch e, the projection f, with which said spring-catch engages,and the disengaging-stud h, substantially as and for the purposesspecified.

8. rEhe combination, with the sliding ribbonfolder E, of the hook-shapedbar L, attached Y to said folder, the pivoted open-mouthed cam M, theslide G, and the lapper or folding hook N, attached to said cam,essentially as described.

9. The combination, with the sliding ribbonfolder E, of the hook i,attached to said folder, the lever-catch 7c, the slide Gr, carrying saidcatch, the curved needles m m, attached to the latter, and the fixedguide-bar O, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

C. O. APPLEBY. Witnesses:

T. J. KEANE, FRED. HAYNEs.

